The Cordillera Huayhuash is a mountain range in the Andes of Peru, located south of the better known Cordillera Blanca. Spanning approximately 30 kilometers, this relatively untouched region traverses three of Peru’s departments—Ancash, Huánuco, and Lima. 

Amazingly, it has no less than seven peaks over 6,000m, including Yerupaja, the second-highest mountain in Peru. Siula Grande, another prominent peak, gained widespread recognition through the book Touching the Void, which recounts mountaineer Joe Simpson’s near-fatal accident and harrowing journey back to safety.

Despite the sheer size of the place, the Cordillera Huayhuash is home to one of the best multi-day trekking circuits in the world. Trekkers ascend to 5,100 meters, almost 300 meters, higher than the summit of Mont Blanc, and can enjoy views and landscapes that are not likely to be found elsewhere in the world. Despite the altitude, the experience makes each additional gasp a small price to pay for the spectacular views and the immense sense of freedom that come with being in such a special environment.

While it is possible to trek the circuit independently, most visitors opt to go with a guide, typically starting from Huaraz, the capital of the Ancash region. This option offers several advantages. Firstly, it supports the local economy, which is heavily reliant on tourism. The COVID-19 pandemic hit areas like this especially hard, and with little government support, local businesses are only now beginning to recover thanks to the return of visitors. Secondly, it’s safer. Helicopters and hospitals are far away, there is no phone signal, and signs don’t really exist. Finally, a guided trek means you won’t need to carry heavy equipment. Given that virtually the entire route sits above 4,000 meters any hiker will be grateful for anything that makes life easier. Beyond your daily water and essentials, the support team—along with donkeys, horses, or mules—transports tents, food, sleeping bags, and cooking gear. Local guides take great care of their animals, recognizing how important they are to the success of Peru’s mountain tourist industry.

The great news is that this is not a circuit you want to, nor can you, rush through. The Italian proverb, “Chi va piano, va sano e va lontano,” is an apt way to describe how best to approach the trek. Go slowly. Open your eyes. Enjoy the landscape and resist the temptation to race to the end. The mountain views, glaciers, lakes, and wildlife—from condors to alpacas—are second to none. That might sound bold to someone living near the Swiss Alps, but it’s true. If Peru had the same international marketing power as Switzerland, these mountains could be the iconic, snow-capped peaks that capture the world’s imagination, instead of tourist hotspots like Zermatt and the Matterhorn.

Due warning, however, it’s cold—especially at night. As soon as the sun sets, the temperature plummets, creating a profound, almost bizarre contrast. You might enjoy lunch in the sunshine, sitting on a rock, but six hours later, you’ll be eating dinner wearing gloves, a hat, and a jacket. In August, for example, night time temperatures can drop to around -10°C. No matter how good your gear is, simple tasks like brushing your teeth, retrieving things from your bag, or finding the motivation to crawl out your tent the next morning can be challenging in such conditions. That said, the daytime warmth offers a welcome reprieve—warm enough, in fact, to take a brisk plunge into the pristine lakes, which sit well above 4,000 meters. It could very well be the highest swim of your life.

Beyond the scenic rewards, the trek also offers rich cultural experiences. Spending anywhere from five to 12 days with a local guide provides ample opportunity to learn about local traditions and history. Much of the Inca culture that dominated these lands before the Spanish colonization still exists today. Indigenous communities manage many of the mountain pathways along the route, and while they will charge you a nominal fee to pass through their lands, they’re welcoming to tourists and offer an authentic glimpse of what life was once like.